North of the Arctic Circle, I crawled along the trail with my head down, watching my boots disappear into the low shrubs before reappearing a step later. The rain wasn't falling so much as traveling sideways. It struck my face in bursts, hard enough that I wore sunglasses
When I decided to hike the Laugavegur Trail across Iceland, one thing was immediately clear: I would be at the mercy of the weather. On most trips, I imagine myself as the protagonist. I build itineraries with military precision. I’m generally convinced that enough planning allows me to dictate